Dreamscapes Travel & Lifestyle

FALL 2019 DREAMSCAPES 27 around freely, and classical music plays qui- etly from discreet speakers beside each stone bench. At dusk, everyone pauses to watch the street lights go on in the park and the town. Surrounding the square, arched porticos frame ancient stone buildings that have been converted into shops, restaurants and bou- tique hotels. The Casa del Naranjo hotel on a historic corner evokes the gracious aristo- cratic lifestyle. In its restaurant, a tall orange tree reaches for the sky from the floor, while a polished wood banister takes guests up to spacious, well-appointed rooms. As a history and architecture buff, I was fascinated by the remains of 17 th - and 18 th - century buildings that house art displays and host various artistic performances. A former convent, the Casa de los Once Patios (House of Eleven Courtyards) is now home to workshops where artists and crafts- people use time-honoured skills to create high-quality wares, and to shops where deals can be had. On a steep hill overlooking the town centre is the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Salud—Patzcuáro's patron saint who some believe performs miracles. The cathedral is also the final resting place of Don Vasco de Quiroga. SANTA FE DE LA LAGUNA An easy 27 kilometres down the road is an indigenous community where, in contrast to the cities, residents take great pains to make time stand still. Descendants of the ancient Purépecha tribe proudly preserve their traditions and culture, from language and pottery-making to cuisine and clothing. Visitors can live the culture at a number of adobe-and-tile hostels owned and operated by local women trained in the hospitality business by the Michoacán tourism secre- tariat. At the pristine Hostal Tzipekua, for example, guests are treated like family, so they are never alone. Award-winning cooks specializing in traditional Purépecha dishes prepare meals in small village eateries, while students from culinary arts schools come to observe and learn. Specialties include home- made cheese and sour cream, atole (a thick, sweet, corn-based drink) and tarasca soup made with pinto beans. Within the ruins of the courtyard of the 16 th -century Hospital de Indios financed by Bishop Vasco, several families gather every Friday to cook a traditional community lunch, socialize and eat together in the old way. The air is fragrant with the aroma of chicken soup boiling in a big cauldron, while rhythmic slapping sounds signify corn tor- tillas being made by hand. The families' community spirit and generosity extended to us, as they offered bowls of soup, cooked vegetables, fruit and bottles of pop. All sum- ming up the true Mexican soul. TRAVEL PLANNER Michoacán's capital, Morelia, is about an hour's flight from Mexico City, the centre of the country's flight universe. Commuter flights are offered by several airlines, including Aeroméxico (aeromexico.com) and Aeromar (aeromar.mx). On the ground, private tour operators offer a range of experiences and English-speaking guides. For those who favour "Spanish immersion," inexpensive public buses also criss-cross the state. For more information, consult your travel agent or search michoacan.travel. For hotel information, visit: Hotel Casa del Naranjo: hotelcasadelnaranjo.com Hotel de la Soledad: hoteldelasoledad.com Villa Montaña Hotel & Spa: villamontana.com.mx DS

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