Dreamscapes Travel & Lifestyle

DREAMSCAPES FALL/ WINTER 2021 36 side my initiation of this native white grape that has me enamoured with the best local flavours. During a fall trip to the sun-rich Dalma- tian Coast, I first learned about several types of truffles that are relished here. Among them are the black summer truffle, the black winter truffle, the precious Perigord black truffle; and then, there's white truffle—the most coveted of these mushroom-like tubers. Come autumn, these subterranean edible delicacies are eagerly sniffed out by specially trained dogs and pigs. A CITY OF CONTRASTS In the medieval-meets-modern city of Split, it is fitting to sample the Old World Pošip, which originated centuries before on neigh- bouring Korcula—an island known for producing the very best Pošip wines at this exceedingly voguish restaurant. Overlooking the Adriatic Sea, the ancient port city of Split features a palm-tree-lined waterfront promenade, plentiful historic sites and a maze of narrow alleys dotted with boutiques and outdoor dining at most every turn. Treasures and tokens abandoned by former dwellers amassed through the ages make Diocletian's Palace a must-see. Equal parts enchanting and mysterious, it's easy to appreciate why the interior of the palace was chosen as a setting for the HBO blockbuster epic fantasy series, Game of Thrones. (Khaleesi's dragons may still be lurking in the basement.) Built as the retirement residence for the Roman Emperor Diocletian in the late third century, it's one of the world's best-pre- served monuments of Roman architecture. Today, you can navigate the ancient luxury villa on a memorable self-guided tour. Its fortress—a designated UNESCO World Her- itage Site—encompasses much of the old town of Split. SUNNY HVAR From Split board a scenic one-hour catamaran or two-hour ferry ride to the enchanting island paradise of Hvar. Or hop a motorboat direct to your waterfront Hvar hotel. A TASTE OF TERROIR "Fish should swim three times: in the sea, olive oil and wine." –Croatian Proverb From north to south along the Adri- atic coast, although the cuisine might be Mediterranean in style, thanks to tradition and terroir it is unmistak- ably Croatian. Throughout Split and Hvar, an abundance of fresh fish and seafood, most notably octopus, is on the menu. Originating in Dalmatia, Salata od hobotnice is chilled octopus salad in garlicy vinaigrette with parsley and potatoes. There are risotto dishes, including Crni rižot, a black risotto, which is a renowned Croatian dish sourced from cuttlefish or squid doused in its dark ink. There are fresh pastas with roasted chestnuts, driz- zled with peppery local extra-virgin olive oil, or those liberal shavings of Istrian white truffles. During the fall season, Istarski Tartuf, or Istrian truffle, is shaved and sprinkled over everything from steak to scrambled eggs. Not to be missed, Paški sir is a very special aged sheep's milk cheese from the Adriatic island of Pag while pršut is Istrian ham that's rubbed with Croatian sea salt, smoked, and dry-cured, served thinly sliced. There's also Velebit honey from the Dalmatian meadows packed with nuts, the green walnut liqueur known as Orahovac—and, of course, some of the finest wines anywhere. "Dobar tek!" Good appetite!

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