Dreamscapes Travel & Lifestyle

WINTER 2022/2023 DREAMSCAPES 23 In the days that follow, I walk among giant tortoise, swim with stingrays and watch from the bow of a catamaran as flying fish leap from the sea. But the highlight of my encounters with the country's wildlife comes on a daytrip to the smaller sister island, Barbuda, reached by ferry or plane. Unlike Antigua, which boasts a moun- tainous landscape of ancient volcanoes and limestone rock, reef-fringed Barbuda is a flat coral isle that teems with wildlife. BARBUDA DAY TRIP From the tiny airport, my tour group is taxied to a pier where we meet Clarence Nibbs. His aluminum skiff named Double Impact whips us across Codrington Lagoon National Park to a thicket of mangroves. Arm's-length away, magnificent frigatebirds feed their fuzzy chicks. During mating season, the males puff out their red throats like a balloon. At 2,500 nesting pairs, this is the largest colony in the western hemisphere. Whisking us off again, Nibbs eases in behind what must be the world's most beautiful beach. This 13-kilometre empty strand sepa- rating Codrington Lagoon from the ocean is called Pink Sand Beach for a reason. Tiny shell fragments wash in and out with the small waves, tinting this endless strand in shades of pink. The late Princess Diana fell in love with Barbuda's pink beaches, vacationing here on this isolated island away from paparazzi several times with her children, Prince William and Harry. On July 1, 2011— on what would have been her 50 th birthday—Barbuda renamed the white sand beach in front of the new Nobu restaurant, Princess Diana Beach. Peering over the pink sand framed by the turquoise Caribbean—its waters as warm as the 28-degree air—I understand her attraction to the beauty and serenity of this island. Somehow, Nibbs convinces us to turn away and board his skiff. Back on the island, we're driven to Uncle Roddy's, a beach bar and grill on the opposite side of the island where they serve Caribbean- infused cuisine and drinks. Bartender Roland Kovacs, who moved here from London three years ago, tells me, "We try to bring interna- tional, high-level cocktail ingredients to the Caribbean." I order his Barbuda Passion cocktail made with Bombay Sapphire gin and Italian Aperitivo to go with the conch fritters. Uncle Roddy's has me hungry for more local cuisine, so I take the Eat 'n Lime Food Tour in the capital of Saint John's with Khadijah Nurse. At just 20 years old, the Guyanese-born already has three years of experience as a food guide. She starts us at The Island B-Hive—one of six stops—with shrimp fritters and garlic sriracha mayo dipping sauce. ANTIGUAN DIALECT SAMPLER Me a go a bayside today – I'm going to the beach Cool out – sitting around doing nothing Tack down – well dressed Whine up yourself – to dance Chop-up – vegetable stew of pumpkin, spinach, eggplant and onion You garret – you're Antiguan, now — from Antiguan Dialect by Elaine Murphy

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