Dreamscapes Travel & Lifestyle

FALL/ WINTER 2023 DREAMSCAPES 15 PHOTOS: TOURIST OFFICE LA TOSCANE OCCITANE/JON DAVISON | ILONA KAUREMSZKY | CHATEAU LASTOURS THE BACKSTORY Unlike the rest of France, this fearless realm in south- west France has a fierce pride of independence, thanks to religion and politics dating back to when counts living in Toulouse ruled the day from the late 8 th century until 1271 and worshippers practised Catharism, which sparked the bloody Albigensian Crusade in the 13 th century. Their distinct Occitan lan- guage (a hybrid of Spanish, Latin and Italian influences dating back centuries) is making a slow comeback; and today, you'll discover a rich culture teeming with local legends and food traditions. I have made it to Occitanie, a region that is as dis- tinct as the macarré (square macarons) eaten here. It's duck country, foie gras land, the capital of the carb- rich cassoulet, a simmering comfort food of duck confit, pork sausage, white beans, and yes, more duck fat. Occitanie holds the top spot as France's biggest wine and organic agricultural region, so naturally, it has its own brand of pain au chocolat, the chocolatine; the bubbly Crémant de Limoux, which is arguably older than champagne; and of course, there's Armagnac, a robust fuller-bodied cognac version. And when satisfied after a meal, you say "On est coufle" and not "I'm full." In early June I arrived at La Ville Rose on board an inaugural flight to this not-so-distant land from Mon- treal to Toulouse with Air Canada, North America's only direct year-round service. SLOW MEETS LOCAL France has dovetailed slow tourism with sustainable travel and hyper-local experiences and Occitanie is ground zero. In the Gaillac region, Gaillac wine is considered one of its best-kept secrets. Along the ser- pentine Tarn River, vignerons (grape growers) at the Château Lastours share stories and offer complimen- tary wine tastings with a cheese and charcuterie plate while local outfitters by the Montech Canal invite you to pedal canal-side where turtles bob their heads, and depending on your travel style, you can go solo or take a compact group tour of other pretty places and explore the surrounds by rail, boat, bike or car. BONJOUR TOULOUSE This is terroir central and the best place to sample the finest food and beverage scene is at a covered market. Toulouse has three. By the carousel at the leafy Jardin Pierre Goudouli, founder of "Taste of Toulouse" Jessica Hammer, an American expat, greets me and off we go to explore the endless purveyors at the Marché Victor Hugo, a gastronomic institution. The cheese shrine Deux Cha- vanne gleams; its white marble counter has a pageant of cheeses on display. Only the finest fromages get a separate pedestal. Violets, a local culinary favourite, are candied, crystalized and added to pastries at Pâtis- serie B. Authié.

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