Dreamscapes Travel & Lifestyle

SPRING/SUMMER 2024 DREAMSCAPES 73 Japan's deadly venomous snakes—so naturally I signed up for a duo island tour in Kagoshima. I wanted to explore how the Japanese get away from it all, so in December with other curious souls I took a long-haul Tokyo direct flight on Air Canada—my first visit to Japan— and after a one-night layover was off to Amami Oshima. I learned that urbanites in Tokyo (the highest populated metropolitan area on Earth with 37 million residents) have found this happy place. AMAMI OSHIMA Driving into darkness, the suspense intensi- fies. "Look beyond the road," announces guide Shun Sirahata, his flashlight scanning the undergrowth. The nocturnal Amami rabbit— Japan's national treasure—is munching on acorns. One of the world's rarest rabbits, the native species thrives in this protected area known as Santaro Pass. Farther up the decom- missioned thoroughfare, now a winding jungle road, was a habu viper snake, so poi- sonous supermarkets sell snake sticks and hotel rooms include emergency medical kits. Yes, tourists can enjoy a guided night tour of the ecologically rich pass on controlled timed drives (only four vehicles permitted per night). Dark sky is included. Mornings: Outdoors On a guided kayak excursion, I dip the paddle in shallow water passing virgin mangrove alleys that grow more spectacular at every turn. Exploring the protected Kuroshionomori Mangrove Park on the eastern coast, I learn how tiny scorpion mud lobsters keep the ecosystem alive in Japan's second largest mangrove system. At the top of Kinsakubaru National Forest on another early morning, I step into a Jurassic Park-looking film location for an original forest bathing experience. Green skyscrapers of flying spider-monkey tree ferns are common sights as are the rock walls spurting spring water nourishing the luminous orchids and velvety moss. The pro- tected park, so precious, is only accessible with certified eco-guides. Afternoons: Cultural Immersions In Uken Village, at the Lento Kokuto Shochu factory, a production tour of the island's go-to tipple reveals how mountain spring water and brown sugar harvested from sugarcane is transformed into a top-shelf product due to a unique aging process. For three months fortis- simo classical music of Mozart and Beethoven becomes surround sound cradling the steel tanks with sonic shakes, giving this firewater spirit the delicate notes required for slow sip- ping. And at Ooshima Tsumugimura village, amid a sprawling garden, I witness mud-dye artisans and weavers developing luxurious tsumugi silk with splashy patterns of kasuri from traditions passed on hundreds of years. On my final evening I join other hotel guests for a good old-fashioned drinking party Amami style with some locals. In Kasari town, at a restored traditional stilt house, we form a circle dance, hands gesturing skyward as we sway like waves in the ocean. It was the harvest dance, performed amid sleeping hens, toddlers following the elders, and the spirited shima uta (village song) from a snakeskin-covered san- shin banjo screeching in the night. Inevitably, Amami's goodbye was Kyushu Island's hello. I was ready to explore another part of Kagoshima Prefecture.

• Cover