Dreamscapes Travel & Lifestyle

moqueca, a seafood and coconut milk stew cooked in a large clay bowl, is another delicious dish. The best place to order moqueca is in Ribeira, a charming beachside neigh- bourhood known for its fresh seafood, seven kilometres from downtown Salvador. My favourite Salvador food experience was beiju, or as my sister and I like to light-heartedly call it, the "Brazilian taco." The tapioca starch shell is plated like a crepe and packed with shredded beef and cheese. Other filling options include banana, cinnamon and guava. This, coupled with a caipirinha (Brazil's national cocktail), or a local brew, defi- nitely hits the spot. FOR CUlTURE BUFFS you haven't experienced Salvador's enthusiasm and spirit until you attend a football (soccer) match at Arena Fonte Nova. One of the venues for the 2014 World Cup and the upcoming 2016 Olympics, Fonte Nova holds up to 50,000 passionate Brazilian football fans. The energy is similar to a Canada vs. USA Olympic hockey final—multiplied by a thousand. It's worth the R50 just to hear the sound of the crowd roar. For music lovers, a true local favourite is Jam no MAM, a jazz jam session that happens every Saturday night at the Museum of Modern Art of Bahia. Recommended by Salvador Free Walking Tours (a knowledgeable local guide and professional photographer), there's no better way to spend a Saturday night in Salvador than sipping on a caipir- inha and listening to world-class jazz under the stars. However, you never have to go too far to find music in Salvador: harmo- nious locals and budding musicians are singing or playing drums everywhere from the bus to the Barra lighthouse to the architecturally-rich streets surrounding the historic centre. Sure, Salvador is not without its flaws. There is (some) street crime, a transit system that leaves much to be desired and beautiful architecture begging for restoration. But, Salvador is unlike any place I've ever been—it's humble. yes, it has its "Disneyland" tourist centre, but beyond Pelourinho, tourists (and locals) don't realize that Salvador is full of character, plentiful green space, world-class cui- sine, dance and music, energy and culture. It has more than enough to satisfy, regardless of your interests. I adored Salvador, despite its few shortcomings. No different to a relationship between sisters. travel planner Air Canada (aircanada.com) flies direct from Toronto to São Paulo. From there, you can catch a domestic flight to Salvador with TAM Airlines (tam.com.br). For accommo- dation in Bahia's capital, consider Estrela do Mar (estreladomarsalvador.com), a charming pousada (B&B) right by the ocean. For more information, visit: Brazil Ministry of Tourism: visitbrasil.com CTS Surf: ctssurf.com left: Fonte Nova holds up to 50,000 passionate Brazilian football fans. bottom: For music lovers, a true local favourite is Jam no MAM. Stephanie Foden 56 Fa l l / W i n t e r 2 0 1 4

• Cover