Dreamscapes Travel & Lifestyle

on the way into the old Town, I was struck by the notion that Prague doesn't just look old; it feels old. a sense of history surrounds you, which you can get lost in. on cue, Neiha turned on the microphone, "My advice to you, when it comes to Prague, is to leave your map at the hotel and get lost in the depths of the city." We stayed at the gorgeous centrally located Palace hotel, near the historic old Town square in the heart of Prague. on our second day, we listened to the personal experiences of our local guide, Jara, who spoke passionately about growing up in Prague. he vividly described being 12 years old when the Velvet Revolution happened in 1989 and recalled the short period of peaceful, widespread dem- onstrations that led to the Russians' ultimate departure. he led us to hrad čany, the Castle district. In fairness, it's more a collection of historical buildings than one castle, and is highlighted by the enormous st. Vitus Cathedral, st. George's Basilica and the Golden lane. arrive early in the morning to beat the crowds, and you'll enjoy a fantastic day of exploration among some of the most beautiful buildings in Prague. starom ěstské náměstí—the old Town square—is quintessential Prague. standing in the middle of the square, it would be difficult to imagine a more impressive view in all of Europe. There are the Church of our lady before Týn, with gothic spires straight out of a fairy tale; nearby st. Nicholas Church, a Baroque masterpiece in its own right; and old Town hall, which lays claim to the famed astro- nomical clock. My suggestion? Climb to the top of old Town hall Tower for a panoramic view of medieval Europe at its finest. We stopped next in Český Krumlov, a small town described in our tour information as a "fairy-tale vision from the Middle ages." We stayed overnight at a special place; the hotel Ruze, a castle-like boutique hotel, is syn- onymous with the city. The nearby Český Krumlov castle was a marvel, and, for reasons unexplained, it had a large bear wandering around a fenced-off area out front. The town is one of surreal beauty, well worth experiencing and impossible to forget. FoR ThE loVE oF aRTs aNd aRChITECTuRE soon after, our coach crossed into austria, a country known for everything from schnitzel to schwarzenegger and swarovski to strudel. En route to Vienna, we crossed the stunning Wachau Valley, stopping in dürnstein, a picturesque town straddling the danube River. I wandered through its sunny streets, which smelled faintly of onion and schnitzel in a surpris- ingly appealing fashion. The town is famous for holding Richard the lionheart captive in the 12 th century. There aren't enough adjectives to describe Vienna. It's a true masterpiece, a place with enormous aesthetic appeal and cultural significance. Vienna seems to have succeeded at whatever it set out to do—opera, science, architecture, music, art and even schnapps. shortly following our arrival, we attended a private performance of the Vienna Residence Orchestra at the Auersperg Palace. The music filled the glit- tering room, and the dancers were so close I could feel the reverberations beneath my feet. Full of Johann strauss's music, but still hungry, we embarked on a "dine-around experience" during which we were free to wine and dine in one of several recommended smaller restaurants. all I can say is that wheat beer and schnitzel are a delectable combination. after a restful night at the Vienna hilton, it was on to schönbrunn Palace, a must-see destination. schönbrunn Palace, which dates back to the 16 th century and the rule of the once powerful habsburg family, boasts close to 1,450 rooms. In the Imperial Gardens I wrote in my journal, "this was and is a city fully realized." left: A private live performance of the Vienna Residence Orchestra at the Auersperg Palace was spellbinding. bottom: The bear, lurking out front of Český Krumlov's historic castle, simply adds to the magic of the town. right: Houses tucked into the mountainside of Dürnstein provide a glimpse of what this riverside town beholds. Christopher Mitchell 14 W i n t e r 2 0 1 4 / 2 0 1 5

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