Dreamscapes Travel & Lifestyle Magazine
Issue link: http://read.dreamscapes.ca/i/569741
direct four-hour flight from Calgary and the cruise ships, which recently started calling here, are sure to put Loreto on more sun- and adventure-seekers' radar. JAW-DROPPING SCENERY Pulling off the highway, we were granted access through an impressive adobe gate to Danzante Bay, which, in addition to the resort, will eventually include a develop- ment of up to 300 single-family homes. Wending our way along a twisting, hill- side ochre dirt road, diamond sunrays shot from the mirror-calm, volcanic-island- dotted Sea of Cortez below. The deserted beach wrapped around the cove later beck- oned a sandy barefoot stroll. To the west, trail-laced, purple-tinged peaks of the Sierra de la Giganta—the moun- tains of the giants—tumble in layers toward the desert floor, tucking the Rees Jones golf course (under construction with the first 11 holes scheduled to open in 2016) and the secluded 181-suite resort between the ridge and the sea. No wonder Loretanos say this is where the mountains come to swim. WELCOME GUESTS On the lobby veranda overlooking five clever turtle-shell-pattern pools and a land- scaped oasis, we were welcomed to Villa del Palmar with a picante chili cucumber mar- garita, a complimentary Sabila Spa chair massage, and a hand-cleansing ritual to release stress as we eased into vacation mode. Ahhh! In the resort's casual Casa Mia bistro, executive chef Alfonso Peregrina presented Loreto's culinary specialty of chocolate clams—said to be an aphrodisiac. His gratin-style delicacies, baked with cheese, chipotle, garlic and butter were a hit. "There are millions of clams here," enthused Sixto Navarro, general manager. "Want to go clamming?" The next morning found me skin-diving in the shallow, crystal-clear waters fronting the resort with Spanish-speaking guide Mauricio. He skimmed the sandy floor and pointed to two tiny protruding air tubes, which resembled wee bubble holes, and beckoned me down. I took a gulp of air and clawed at the sand to unearth the glistening dark chocolate-shelled mollusk before buoy- ancy sent me popping back up to the surface. Shoreside, the clams were shucked for willing tasters, garnished with a squeeze of lime and tajin seasoning, a Mexican medley of chili peppers, lime and salt. WHALES GALORE To explore the wonders of Loreto Bay, Mexico's largest national marine park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a boat tour is a definite must-do. We embarked on a snor- keling expedition in Loreto Harbour with Danzante Tours. Our destination, Coronado, one of the park's five uninhabited islands, boasts a stunning white beach and aquama- rine cove. Jacques Cousteau proclaimed the Sea of Cortez "the world's aquarium" for just this reason. As we motored out, guide Daniel gave a rundown on the rich marine life. Hundreds of fish species including sailfish and marlin make Loreto a hit with sport fishers; common, bottlenose and striped dolphins and false killer whales are regu- larly sighted; and the nutrient-rich sea supports the world's largest and most varied whale population, which includes enor- mous blues and finbacks, the largest cetaceans, for which the sheltered waters are a nursery. In addition, he explained, in protected Magdalena Bay on Baja's Pacific coast, 2.5 hours to the west, grey whales give birth between January and March. A surprised shout interrupted Daniel. Turning, I could only stammer. The sheer size of a blue whale surfacing off the bow, then another to starboard, took both words and breath away. Just like Loreto's natural beauty did. Baja Mexico's little-discovered destination won't be so for long. FALL 2015 DREAMSCAPES 35 T R A V E L P L A N N E R This winter, WestJet's (westjet.com) weekly service from Calgary commences December 12, increasing to twice weekly between February 10 and May 28, 2016. For more information, visit: Danzante Tours: viajesdanzante.com Loreto Hotel Association: gotoloreto.com Loreto Tourism: loreto.com Villa del Palmar at the Islands of Loreto: villadelpalmarloreto.com Wild Loreto: wildloreto.com DS